Kumaon ki Rani, Kausani

Here at Kausani, where Gandhi once wrote poetry, we lingered in the serene arms of the Himalayas, hoping to glimpse their snow-covered peaks. But a downpour swept us into a little tea stall nearby where we had the most scrumptious maggi and gratifying adrak chai amidst warm Pahaari banter and amorous rain patter, while the only two light bulbs in the shop fluctuated on and off with the power cuts. "Off-season me sab kuch off hota hai," laughed the chaiwalla, a lanky lad who put so much dil into all he did, and had a very infectious smile. Aur chhoti si dukaan mai, bada sa stereo...because what else does one need in life, but music and mountains? But life as a Pahaari is not easy. Aside from poor accessibility to supplies, transportation or services, the gush of water from one cloud burst during the rains could wreak much havoc. And yet, here they were, cheerfully making maggi, chai and chatting with the customers. Heartening to see such happiness in such simplicity. 

The rains subsided and we stepped out of the chai stall. Alas, the mountains' full glory remained unveiled behind the fog. Yet, as we strode into the sunlight, there lay, inserted in the silver lace of clouds, and witnessed by the majestic Himalayas in the backdrop, a delightfully magical rainbow. 

We didn't get what we came for - stunning visuals of the snow peaks. Yet we left feeling we'd gained so much. 

                                                          ©Photographs and prose by Hetal Shah